An electric strike replaces the fixed keeper in the frame with one that can pivot away on command, releasing the latch without the lock itself changing state. It is the most common way to add remote or credentialed entry to an existing door, because the door and its lockset stay exactly as they are.
Typical range: $425–$1600 CAD. Ranges are typical for the GTA and depend on the door, the hardware and the time of day. We confirm the price before dispatching.
Fail-safe versus fail-secure — the decision that matters
A fail-secure strike stays locked when power is removed. A fail-safe strike unlocks when power is removed. Choosing wrongly is not a preference error, it is potentially a code violation and a safety hazard.
The general principle is that a door must never trap people on loss of power, and it must never leave a building unsecured unnecessarily. On a normal entrance door with free mechanical egress from inside, fail-secure is correct — power loss leaves the building locked, and people can still leave because the inside lever always works. On a door where the electric lock is what allows egress, fail-safe is mandatory and must additionally release on fire alarm.
Getting this wrong in the unsafe direction creates a door people cannot escape through. It is the single most important specification point on the job, and it is why this is not a DIY installation.
Power, and why installations fail
Strikes are AC or DC and are voltage-specific — typically 12V or 24V. Running a DC strike on AC, or the wrong voltage, produces either a buzz, a strike that does not release reliably, or premature failure.
The other frequent fault is undersized wiring over a long run. Voltage drop means the strike sees less than it needs and releases intermittently, which presents as a door that "sometimes does not work" and gets misdiagnosed as a faulty strike. Calculating the run and specifying the gauge properly at installation avoids an expensive callback.
Frame preparation
The strike has to be cut into the frame accurately, and the frame type dictates the approach. Hollow metal frames are straightforward. Aluminium frames on storefronts need a strike specified for narrow-stile applications and for the particular latch it is receiving. Wood frames need care not to compromise the jamb.
A strike that is cut in without the latch meeting it squarely will either not release cleanly or will let the door rattle. Alignment is most of the craft in this job.
What you can connect to a strike
- A card or fob reader, for credentialed entry
- A keypad, for code entry without issuing credentials
- An intercom or video door station, for visitor buzz-in
- A reception desk release button
- A telephone entry system for multi-tenant buildings
- An existing access control platform, where we integrate to what you already run
Frequently Asked Questions
Will an electric strike work with my existing lock?
In most cases yes — that is the main attraction. The strike replaces the keeper in the frame and the lockset stays as it is, so long as the latch profile is compatible with the strike. Deadbolts are the exception: a thrown deadbolt cannot be released by a strike, so doors that need electric release use a latch, not a deadbolt.
What happens during a power outage?
That depends on the specification, which is why it is chosen deliberately. Fail-secure strikes stay locked, and people inside still leave normally using the mechanical lever. Fail-safe strikes unlock, which is required where the electric lock is what permits egress. On any door where a maglock or an electric lock controls egress, release on power loss and on fire alarm is mandatory.
Can I install an electric strike myself?
We would not recommend it, and not primarily for commercial reasons. The fail-safe versus fail-secure decision has life-safety consequences on egress doors, and the fire-alarm interface on doors that require it is a code matter. Beyond that, frame cutting has to be accurate and power has to be correctly specified. A wrong choice here can create a door people cannot get out of.
Why does my electric strike buzz loudly?
An audible buzz is normal and intentional on an AC strike — it signals that the door is released. If you do not want it, a DC strike operates silently. A buzz on a strike that used to be silent, though, usually indicates a voltage or wiring problem worth checking.
Electric Strikes across the GTA
We provide electric strike installation throughout the Greater Toronto Area. Pick your city for local detail, or call and we will tell you straight away whether you are in range.
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